Galli Uhren Bijouterie AG
Theaterstrasse 16, on Bellevue
CH-8001 Zurich
Tel: +41 44 262 04 10
Fax: +41 44 252 49 96
The origins of the TUDOR manufacture
Founded in 1926, watch manufacturer TUDOR opened its new manufacture in Le Locle in 2023. The new manufacture in the canton of Neuchâtel is shared with the movement manufacturer Kenissi. There are good reasons for this arrangement.
To understand the roots of TUDOR and its movements, we must first travel back in time. Below is an advert for the Oyster Prince from 1952.
Before 2010, TUDOR was practically only known as Rolex’s lesser-known second brand. The timepieces were very similar in appearance to Rolex watches, but unlike Rolex watches, they did not have their movements ticking inside.
Before the turn of the last millennium, Fleurier and Valjoux movements were among those used, followed by the high-quality movements from ETA (ETA SA Manufacture Horlogère Suisse is a Swiss watch manufacturer that belongs to the Swatch Group).
Pictured left is the first TUDOR diver’s watch, which was launched in 1954. It bore the name Oyster Prince Submariner, reference 7922, a self-winding wristwatch that had never been seen before in the brand’s collection, with the typical functional features of a diver’s watch. Pictured below is the new interpretation, the Black Bay 54.
During this period, however, ETA began to restrict the supply of movements and components to external companies and continued this trend in the coming years. At the end of 2019, they announced that they would stop supplying third-party companies. Compared to the other ETA customers, however, TUDOR did not have to worry about this, as the manufacture in Le Locle was already in the planning stage.
2015: First TUDOR manufacture movement
Even before the new manufacturing centre was opened, the first manufacture movement was introduced in 2015. This movement was named the MT5621 and was part of TUDOR’s endeavours to achieve greater independence in terms of movement production. In 2015, this dream became a reality with the introduction of the North Flag.
2016: The foundation
The following year, the Geneva-based watch brand founded the company Kenissi to drive forward the development and production of its own movements. In addition, Kenissi wanted to share its expertise with selected third-party brands by offering their basic calibres. Today, its customers include brands such as Breitling, Norqain and Tag Heuer.
The Swiss watch industry has a long tradition of producing high-quality and precise mechanical watches. With Kenissi, smaller Swiss watch brands now have the opportunity to use first-class movements, strengthening their position within the industry and further consolidating Switzerland’s reputation as a leading centre for fine watchmaking.
2018: The start of construction
The aim was to bring the assembly departments of Montres TUDOR S.A. in Geneva closer to the company’s subsidiaries and suppliers in the Swiss Jura. The production facility in the typical TUDOR red colour and the adjoining Kenissi building were completed in 2021 and officially opened in March 2023 during the Watches and Wonders trade fair, the most important trade fair for Swiss luxury watch brands.
2023: The opening
The manufactory, which is decorated entirely in TUDOR red, extends over four floors and covers a total area of 5,500 square metres. It is spatially and visually connected to the neighbouring Kenissi Manufacture, which was founded in 2016 as a production facility for TUDOR movements.
Thanks to Kenissi (left and grey part of the manufacture) and a network of TUDOR subsidiaries, the brand was able to take over the development and production of high-performance mechanical calibres. In this way, TUDOR now fully controls the manufacture of strategic components and can therefore guarantee quality.
Biological balance and harmony
The more than 400 solar cells cover the majority of the energy requirements. Another issue is absolute cleanliness. Every speck of dust can impair the flawless functioning of a mechanical movement. Only endemic plants from the Jura have been planted on the site so as not to affect the delicate biological balance of the region.
Every hour, the air in the studios is circulated 3.5 times from the ceiling to the floor. Temperature and humidity are constantly monitored. The manufactory is also well prepared in the event of a fire. Gas cylinders located in the cellar would smother the fire in the event of a fire with the help of nitrogen and other gases, without any valuable components being damaged by water.
METAS-Certification
The year 2015 began and Omega set a new milestone in watchmaking. In collaboration with the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS), they set a new benchmark in the testing of watches. In addition to the well-known COSC certificate (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres) , which is also issued, there is now a certificate from METAS. In 2021, TUDOR presented the first METAS-certified wristwatch, the Black Bay Ceramic. In 2023, the Black Bay Burgundy was presented, which also comes with the new METAS standard. The direction in which TUDOR is heading is clear and shows the unrestricted drive for perfection.
The establishment of the manufacture represents a significant step in its history and will support TUDOR significantly in the coming years. Furthermore, the brand strives to produce first-class luxury watches at an optimal price. The establishment of the Manufacture is therefore a decisive step in this direction and will help TUDOR to realise this ambition in the years to come.
